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Adapalene 101: Everything You Need to Know About the Gentle Acne-Fighting Retinoid

Dermatologists have long relied on adapalene for clearer skin—and you don’t need a prescription to try it.

By Kevin Harson

Adapalene 101: Everything You Need to Know About the Gentle Acne-Fighting Retinoid

Using Differin Gel for acne is a rite of passage for those of us who identify as having oily skin and deal with constant breakouts. Dermatologists love it. It’s in every acne-fighting guide. I love this gel so much that I slather it all over my face for supersmooth, clear skin. And its incredible results are thanks to this ingredient: adapalene.

Vogue’s Favorite Adapalene Picks

If tretinoin is the gold standard of retinoids, then adapalene is its fun sibling that everyone loves. You get the same benefits without the harshness associated with tretinoin. Plus you don’t have to secure a doctor’s sign-off to get your hands on it. Access to adapalene is all yours with a simple click of “add to cart.” But why do experts love this ingredient so much?

“It is one of those ingredients where the science is much more interesting than the trend,” says Sonia Badreshia, MD, FAAD, board-certified dermatologist at Elite MD. “It has decades of dermatologic use behind it, and it works by normalizing cell turnover, so we are preventing clogged pores rather than simply chasing individual breakouts.”

In This Story

What is adapalene?

Adapalene is a retinoid usually used to treat acne. According to Badreshia, it helps skin cell turnover and clears pores to prevent the buildup that causes breakouts. Adapalene does not need to be converted by the skin before becoming active, but Badreshia says it is better tolerated and gentler on the skin than something like tretinoin. Marisa Garshick, MD, board-certified dermatologist at MDCS Dermatology, agrees and adds that it is more photostable than other retinoids, which just means it won’t be less stable under UV exposure and you can use it during the day.

Skinfix

Adapinoid Gel

Acne Free

Adapalene Gel 0.1%

Differin

Epiduo Acne Gel

Taro

OHM Adapalene 0.1% USP Gel

The Benefits

One of the biggest benefits adapalene has is its anti-inflammatory properties, says dermatologist Hadley King, MD, and it has a reduced risk of irritation. King also says it can work quickly.

Badreshia adds that it can help treat all types of acne, such as blackheads, whiteheads, and inflammatory pimples, while also improving uneven texture and post-acne dark marks and scars. But the biggest benefit of adapalene, she says, is prevention of these pesky breakouts. “It treats the entire acne-prone area, including developing clogged pores you cannot see yet,” she says. “Making it valuable for maintaining clearer skin.”

The Downsides

Adapalene has the same downsides that you’d find with any retinoid. Garshick says dryness, redness, peeling, burning, or irritation may occur when you’re first starting to use it. And though it is gentler than retinoids such as tretinoin, she adds that it is best to use caution if you have eczema, rosacea, or sensitive skin.

King adds that your skin can still be sensitive to the sun when using any retinoid, so be sure to use SPF daily. Adapalene is also not recommended for anyone who is pregnant or breastfeeding, she says.

How do you get adapalene?

Garshick says that adapalene has historically been a prescription product, but now adapalene concentrations of 0.1% are approved for OTC, with concentrations that are higher still needing a prescription. So it’s pretty easy to get.

You’ll find great options like the La Roche-Posay Effaclar Adapalene Gel 0.1%, which Garshick describes as a lightweight gel formula that is perfect for acne-prone skin. Other gel options that experts love include Neutrogena Evenly Clear Retinoid Adapalene Gel 0.1% and PanOxyl 0.1% Leave-On Gel.

How do you use adapalene?

King says that when you start using adapalene, try applying it every other night just to see how your skin tolerates it. If your skin can take it, then you can up the frequency of use. Garshick suggests applying a pea-size amount to your entire face after you cleanse and before you moisturize.

It’s best to use it with gentle and hydrating ingredients like ceramides, niacinamide, and hyaluronic acid. She likes something like SkinFix Adapinoid Gel, which mixes adapinoid (a precursor that converts into adapalene) with niacinamide and squalane to calm inflammation and hydrate dry skin.

And be careful with benzoyl peroxide and salicylic acid if it’s not already combined into the same product, as it might cause more irritation or dryness. Go with something like Differin Epiduo, which combines adapalene and benzoyl peroxide in its formulation and was approved this May for OTC use. “It isn’t simply another adapalene gel,” says Badreshia. “The combination addresses clogged pores with adapalene, while benzoyl peroxide adds an antimicrobial component for inflammatory acne.”

You can use adapalene in the morning or at night (Garshick wouldn’t recommend using it more than once a day). Badreshia recommends that those with melanin-rich skin use products to protect the skin barrier to prevent additional dark marks. You’ll also want to avoid using it on areas that have been freshly waxed, and be sure to always disclose to a practitioner that you’re using adapalene if you’re about to get a chemical peel or facial treatment. For any deep, painful breakouts, scarring, or lack of improvement in your acne after a couple of months, check in with your dermatologist.

And in a world of constantly wanting immediate gratification, experts say this is one product where you’ll have to be patient. “It can take time to take effect,” says Garshick. “So it is important to be consistent.”

Everything You Need to Know

How We Tested

When we test and review a product, we take a holistic approach to deliver well-rounded product recommendations. First, we lean on Vogue’s vast network of experts—from board-certified dermatologists to celebrity aestheticians—to gain professional acumen on the industry’s standout products, ones these specialists would actually use on their clients. We pair their expertise with our editorial best practices to curate the thoughtful edits you read on our site.

Meet the Experts

  • Sonia Badreshia, MD, FAAD, is a board-certified dermatologist at Elite MD.
  • Marisa Garshick, MD, is a board-certified dermatologist at MDCS Dermatology.
  • Hadley King, MD, is a New York–based board-certified dermatologist.

Originally published by vogue.com. Syndicated material does not necessarily reflect the views of Vanity Fair Fashion.

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