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How to Get Rid of Dark Spots, According to Derms

By Swedan Margen

How to Get Rid of Dark Spots, According to Derms

My mom is 62, and for the past few years, I've heard her talk about her dark spots from time to time. I think she has great skin (if mine looks anything like hers when I'm in my 60s, I'll be happy). That said, I know we're always our worst critics, and I'm a firm believer that if something bothers you, you should feel empowered to do something about it. So, when she formally asked me how to get rid of them a few weeks ago, I decided to help out. I'm a beauty editor, after all. What kind of daughter would I be if I didn't share the benefits of my position with my mom?

There was one caveat. As the bargain-buyer she is, my mom only wanted to spend around $150 on her entire routine. Luckily, I'm Who What Wear's resident drugstore enthusiast, so I had no shortage of products to share. On that note, check out my series Drugstore Heroes, where I ask industry insiders to share their diamond-in-the-rough recommendations.

Ahead, see the exact routine I recommended. Don't worry—it's all approved by derms (I checked).

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1. Retinoids

Retinaldehyde Cream Serum 0.05%

Naturium

Retinaldehyde Cream Serum 0.05%

My first recommendation was to incorporate a retinoid, specifically Naturium's Retinaldehyde Cream Serum 0.05%. (I'm a fan of Naturium and use a lot of its products myself, so it was an obvious choice, especially due to its budget-friendly price point.) Why this retinoid, specifically? Let me explain.

Retinoids are the gold standard for treating fine lines and wrinkles, rough and bumpy texture, and, yes, dark spots. This class of vitamin A ingredients includes retinol, retinyl esters, and retinaldehyde—also known as retinal. "Retinol can be very effective for dark spots because it increases cell turnover and helps disperse existing pigment, says Dermatologist Azadeh Shirazi, MD, FAAD. "In my practice, I recommend introducing it gradually to avoid irritation, especially in mature or sensitive skin. Shirazi specifically recommends her AziMD Lift + Renew Serum. "[It's] formulated to offer results similar to prescription Tretinoin without the side effects. This serum combines all-trans-retinol, bakuchiol, and antioxidants to improve discoloration. With regular use, expect visibly brighter, firmer skin in just four to eight weeks. Other well-formulated retinoids from brands like SkinBetter Science or Alastin can also be effective when used correctly."

Tama Tran, NP-C, is a board-certified aesthetic nurse practitioner. She says using too much retinol, too fast, can cause irritation, which can actually worsen dark spots. "Over-the-counter retinol is useful but less effective, whereas medical-grade or prescription RetinA is more effective," she says.

Retinoids conversion chart

All non-prescription forms must convert to retinoic acid to be used by the skin. The gentler a retinoid is, the more conversions it needs to undergo before it can be used by the skin. The more potent a retinoid is, the fewer conversions it needs to undergo before it can be used by the skin. This handy conversion chart explains it.

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