Playful, Nostalgic, and High Fashion: Welcome to Baby-Doll Fall
Marc Jacobs has long treasured a sense of childlike wonder (at his spring 2024 show, models walked like stiff paper dolls underneath a towering sculpture of a folding table and chairs), but this year's collection took the dress-up theme to new heights. Back in February, models sauntered down the runway wearing puffed-up proportions, Betty Boop–coded pumps, and fabric appliqués—in varying shades of "Pat McGrath red"—fastened to their lips and cheeks as if they were plucked out of a toy chest. Days later, we clocked clustered, spiky lashes at Thom Browne and Cucculelli Shaheen, "rubber lips" at Gabe Gordon, and at Christian Cowan, '60s beehive wigs with polished, flared ends akin to a retro Barbie. As we dashed from show to show, furiously scribbling down notes for our imminent F/W 25 beauty trend report, we knew one thing for sure: This fall, we'll be getting all dolled up.
Runway shows may pave the way for trends, but the everyday sidewalks cement them—and user behavior certainly reflects the doll-like wave: '60s baby-doll blush took center stage (hi, Sabrina Carpenter), flipped bobs officially reached peak popularity, and exaggerated cut creases once again picked up steam. Love it or loathe it, a baby-doll fall is well on its way, and artists are eager to play pretend.
"It taps into fashion history—think '60s mod, Y2K Bratz, Parisian preppy—while still feeling current, thanks to TikTok and pop culture references," says celebrity makeup artist Jaleesa Jaikaran. "It's viral not only because it's versatile, but there's always a way to make it your own, whether it's a cute, soft innocence, more of a flirty glam, or chic and polished." After years of no-makeup makeup and clean-girl makeup, beauty fans are (finally) craving drama and fresh storytelling, and with a doll-inspired aesthetic, you can lean into the multidimensional character as much or as little as you please. "Being a doll is transferable. Look at Bratz dolls—there's one for every shade," celebrity makeup artist Ngozi "Esther" Edeme points out.
I'd be remiss not to address the elephant—pink, plush, and huggable, of course—in the room and the wider cultural influences at play. Beauty often functions as a mirror to society, and when faced with uncertainty (economically, geopolitically, the works), it's common for enthusiasts to lean into all things nostalgic, as it’s a way to grasp onto the past while the future remains unclear. Nothing's more nostalgic than a toy you might have once cradled in the crook of your elbow or safely tucked away inside a darling dollhouse; wearing doe-eyed lashes or a flouncy ponytail could convey, even unconsciously, a desire to be coddled similarly. "People want control and fantasy right now," declares celebrity hairstylist Evanie Frausto. "Doll hair is never 'natural.' It’s always perfected, shiny, flipped, frozen in place. There’s a comfort in that."
Doll-like looks certainly harp on the familiar, but they're also astonishingly surreal—a tension that makes the aesthetic particularly exciting for fall 2025. "It's glossy, it's precise, it's camp, and it photographs really well," Frausto adds. Granted, we may not all be shuffling down the runway like Marc Jacobs's troupe of paper dolls, but we can surely take a page out of the designer's playbook and embrace the make-believe—even with something as simple as a vibrant, youthful flush.
Exaggerated, spiky lashes. A flipped bob. Rounded pops of blush. A razor-thin cut crease (if you dare). All are hallmarks of the '60s baby-doll aesthetic that's surged over 4000% on Pinterest, per the website's fall trends report. "It's a look that pairs well with a knee-high boot and a shift dress," notes Lila Childs, an NYC-based makeup artist who predicted the return of spiky, doe-eyed lashes post–Paris Fashion Week.
She recommends using a lengthening mascara with a thinner wand as opposed to a fluffy, volumizing number, so you can wiggle enough pigment onto each lash. Jaikaran agrees, suggesting another pass with a clean spoolie to further separate and define those lashes. For that thin, mod cut crease, eye shadow sticks and/or liquid eyeliners are your friends. Just trace your product of choice along the top of your lid, making it as rounded as possible to create that Sharon Tate–esque, baby-doll effect.
