Put Down the Baguette—This Fendi Bag Is Just As Iconic and About to Make a Huge Comeback

As a handbag-obsessed editor, I've got an encyclopaedic memory when it comes to It bags. From vintage icons like the Chanel Flap Bag to more recent additions like The Row's esteemed Margaux, it's something I've studied at great length, as not only do I love the look of a bag, but the finer details, the thoughtful design motifs, and the cultural impact they've had along the way. Today, I'm focused on one such bag that took the fashion world by storm and has now returned for autumn/winter 2025.

Let's take it back for a moment. It's the middle of the spring/summer 2005 runways, and Fendi's catwalk is about to start. The lights come up and the show begins. A parade of models takes to the stage in a wash of colourful summer looks, each carrying the latest addition to Fendi's impeccable bag collection—the Fendi Spy Bag had been unveiled.

The effect was immediate. Waiting lists began to fill up as every celebrity and stylish person wanted to add the House's newest icon to their collections. As soon as it was released, the bag was consistently spotted on well-known names from Ashley Olsen to Sarah Jessica Parker. Two decades later, the appeal for the bag hasn't wavered, with avid bag collectors searching resale sites for a second chance at this piece, and even Bella Hadid was spotted carrying a vintage version in 2022. With twenty years of legacy behind it, Fendi has relaunched the Spy Bag for 2025. As it's already been spotted on the arms of celebrities and fashion people, I wanted to put this reimagined It bag to the test.

A Deep Review of the New Fendi Spy Bag

Gaining icon status for an accessory is a major feat in itself; an even greater one is to gain the title on a reissued style. But in my opinion, Fendi has a head start with the distinctive silhouette of the bag. The dumpling shape alongside the sleek double handle and soft form embodied the bohemian mood of the time, and one that we’re seeing revived for 2025. You just have to look to the rise of blouses, ruffles and floaty boho dresses to see that a similar aesthetic is making waves right now, perfectly aligned with the bags' relaunch.

The look and feel of the bag remains true to the original design, notably the blend of refined craftspersonship and the joyful creative talents of Silvia Venturini. The securing flap has a hidden compartment for your most treasured possessions, a nod to the secretive connotations of the name of the bag. In mine, I stored a lip gloss close to hand.

The most notable change to the bag comes in the look. Fitting for its debut in the early 2000's the bag was launched in neutral colourways along with metallics and two-tone versions. In the following fall collection, the Spy Bag was redesigned with velvet finishes, bead embroidery and bold prints. In the twenty-year interlude since launch, there have been various shifts in the fashion sphere and a distinct change in mood. Whilst bold designs will always have their place, the quietening of fashion that arose in the past few years has retained its power over style, with a less-is-more appeal being the highest form of luxury.

Void of logos and patterns, the new Fendi Spy Bag is much more subtle, concentrating on smooth, refined leather, an eye-catching silhouette and a considered palette. Currently, the bag is available in classic neutrals, accent pastel shades and a shearling iteration. Eagle-eyed onlookers will have also spotted a few new additions on the autumn/winter 2025 runways, including an incredibly elegant deep green and patent black. The previously woven handles have also been updated with a fresh twist design, adding to the timeless appeal of the bag that ensures that twenty years from now, we’ll still be talking about the Fendi Spy Bag.