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The Gender-Affirming Power of Scent: Queer Stories of Fragrance and Identity

By Swedan Margen

The Gender-Affirming Power of Scent: Queer Stories of Fragrance and Identity

Trans and nonbinary people are sick of having to explain to you who they are. They’ve spent their lives doing it—defending their identities from schoolyard bullies and the American government, all within the first fractions of their lifetimes. On the inauguration day of Donald Trump’s second term as president of the United States, the White House issued an executive order to “end the federal funding of gender ideology,” deeming the fluidity of gender norms an “inchoate social concept”—jeopardizing the livelihoods, families, and identities built upon the notion that gender is not a physical being but a word that pins heterosexual normatives onto unsubscribing individuals.

People have taken to the streets and congressional floors to battle these subjugative orders, but often the strongest acts of defiance are the simplest—trans and nonbinary individuals living their lives authentically, wearing the makeup and clothes that represent their innermost identities. One of the most affirming ways that people can express themselves without saying a word is with fragrance.

“Fragrance has helped me subtly parlay between masculinity and femininity in a way that feels the most pure,” Cyrus Veyssi, renowned Iranian American content creator, tells me. “It affirms my gender without me having to prove it based on a certain look.” To non-gender-conforming individuals, a scent is not merely a bundle of notes but a sensorial song woven with silent statements—a subtle, floral-drenched declaration of self and a synonymous battle cry of visibility. “Fragrance is part of my armor,” says beauty and style content creator Antoni Bumba of her growing arsenal. “Scent is that many people are incredibly receptive to—and people treat you a whole lot better when you smell good.”

Cyrus Veyssi

A portrait of Cyrus Veyssi by Emilio Madrid.

Their Forever Fragrance:YSL Beauty Libre Eau de Parfum ($145)

For the former magazine intern turned content creator champion, Veyssi has found sensorial strength in the invisible accessory. Whether they dip into their “evening” selection of fragrances—read: muskier, more mysterious scents—or shower themselves in daytime florals, they appreciate the fact that fragrance speaks for itself. “That takes off so much pressure for me to have to prove anything,” they explain.

Above all, Veyssi appreciates the fluidity of fragrance—how no scent is one-size-fits-all, allowing you to highlight different facets of your person with the right combination of notes. “I feel the most gender euphoric towards my masculinity when I’m playing with my evening, bold fragrances,” muses Veyssi, spotlighting Maison Francis Kurkdjian Gentle Fluidity and Tom Ford Oud Wood as frequent picks. Both scents are underscored with notes of wood and subtle spice, making them warm, inviting, and charmingly androgynous. However, the internet mogul favors fresh, feminine scents during the daytime, opting for spritzes of floral Chanel Chance or sweet Miel Bébé from Le Monde Gourmand instead.

An image of Cyrus Veyssi photgraphed by Wasi Ferdus.

It's especially common for trans and nonbinary individuals to float toward fragrances that are associated with positive childhood experiences—especially ones attached to people they found beautiful and safe, like a parent—and Veyssi often embraces the scent memories they hold dear. “My mother used to have a boutique when I was younger, and she constantly sprayed a fragrance that contained a top note of patchouli,” they recall. “Every time I smell that unique scent, it makes me think of my mom. That, and Prada Amber—her signature scent.”

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The Gender-Affirming Power of Scent: Queer Stories of Fragrance and Identity - Vanity Fair Fashion